Tonka fragrances

Tonka is the seed of the Brazilian tree Dipteryx odorata, which after drying smells of coumarin — a substance that smells of hay, almonds and vanilla at once. In 1882, in Fougère Royale, coumarin became one of the first synthetic molecules in perfumery, opening up the whole modern fougère family; without tonka, the history of men's fragrance would look different. In a composition tonka does what vanilla can't: it gives warmth and creaminess without sticky sweetness. That's why it's so common in bases — it rounds off edges, links spices with wood and extends longevity without pushing the fragrance into gourmand. In our range you'll find it in at least fifteen fragrances, from Montale Arabians Tonka, where it's in the name and the base, to Kilian Angel's Share, where it supports cognac and caramel.

Montale Arabians Tonka: Tonka is in the name — the central note of an Arabian-oriental fragrance. One of the best showcases of the tonka accord.
Xerjoff Naxos: Tonka combined with honey and tobacco — part of a rich Mediterranean-oriental composition.
Parfums de Marly Layton: Coumarin, tonka's main aroma molecule, sits in Layton's base with vanilla and cardamom. Tonka itself isn't in the pyramid, but the effect is related.

What does tonka smell like?

Sweet and almondy with vanilla and coumarin tones — a little hay-like and creamy, warm and sweet. Similar to vanilla, but with its own character.

Is tonka the same as benzoin?

No — benzoin is a resinous material with a vanilla-balsamic scent. Tonka is more almondy, with pronounced coumarin. Both are warm base materials.

Is tonka suitable for every season?

Tonka is mainly an autumn and winter note — its sweetness and warmth are wintry. In a summer fragrance it's too intense.

Is tonka the same as vanilla?

No, although they feel related. Vanilla is sweet and creamy, while tonka also has a hay-like, almondy and slightly tobacco edge that comes from coumarin. In practice: vanilla smells of dessert, tonka of warm skin and hay. They often appear together precisely because tonka takes some sweetness away from vanilla.

Why is tonka in so many men's fragrances?

Because coumarin is the foundation of the fougère family, which since 1882 has been the most widespread structure in men's perfumery. Lavender, oakmoss and coumarin form the basis on which most classic men's fragrances stand — so tonka has been present in men's fragrances for more than a century, even when nobody mentions it.